Buffalo are not something you expect to see roaming across the hinterland. They are majestic beasts… huge, in fact… so it seems quite surreal to find them dotted over 100 expansive acres at the Thompson farm at Witta, just a short drive from Maleny.
It is always a privilege to meet up with Margaret and Mal Thompson, and I always leave for home feeling humbled and inspired. Beautiful, generous people, they are pioneers in Queensland’s buffalo farming industry and their farm is founded on a passion they themselves find hard to explain.
Farming is hard work, and given the fact Mal’s 74th birthday is not long gone, it makes the Thompson’s buffalo enterprise seem even more remarkable, especially when you consider they only took the leap in 2005 after a chance visit to their daughter’s home in the Northern Territory.
Photo: Lachie Millard – www.lachiemillard.com
Up until that point, Mal had been toying with the idea of breeding sheep or goats for milk. He even considered camels (a train of thought he has not quite abandoned) before finding himself the new carer of a herd of five Riverine buffalo cows. Then he had the difficult task to get them home.
You see, while I think buffalo are rather cute (show me a creature I don’t feel that way about) — and Mal’s animals are quite tame, even affectionate — they don’t generally have the best reputation. So when presented with the task of transporting them to Witta, most livestock transporters gave him a wide berth. It eventually took four stages to get them to the greener pastures of their new home.
Since those early days, the herd has increased somewhat. A variety of breeds as well as an experimental breeding program has seen it expand to some 80 cows and calves and a very handsome (and scary) looking bull.
Photo: Lachie Millard – www.lachiemillard.com
While Margaret and Mal had done their research, this style of farming was all very new to them. There were permits to deal with, and nothing is ever straightforward or easy with buffalo, since they are such an unknown quantity, with the stigma of a poor reputation. Things have changed now, though, and I think Margaret is pretty much the authority on the beasts, having recently travelled to the United States, Canada and throughout Europe as part of a sponsored Churchill Fellowship, visiting other buffalo farms and dairies to gain inspiration and knowledge for application to their own enterprise. Having said that, maximising the bloodline means importing semen from prime breeding stocks around the world as they are simply not available in Australia. The aim is to increase productivity, which will hopefully result in much more milk.
Much like cattle, buffalo are farmed for their milk and meat, however there are some major points of difference. Buffalo milk has 58% more calcium, 40% more protein and 43% less cholesterol than cows’ milk. In our health-conscious times, this is one heck of a bonus. Additionally, the milk has a lighter, sweeter flavour and is a rich source of iron, phosphorus and vitamin A. As for the meat, it has 70%-90% less fat in comparison with beef, and an average 50% less cholesterol. It is higher in protein and iron as well as all of the omega and amino acids.
Whenever I visit the Thompsons there is always an extended period of ‘aaaww-ing’ when I spot the calves — they are seriously cute and friendly. In fact the whole herd are almost like pets. But before I can get carried away and try to bundle a cute fluffy calf into the back of my car, I am made aware you do need a special permit to farm them. So as tempted as I may have been to adopt a new family member, there were two big obstacles. One, it was not financially viable, and two, my suburban back yard would be less than adept.
Photo: Lachie Millard – www.lachiemillard.com
Prising myself away from the calves, we wandered down to the paddock, where we caught up with the rest of the family. Mal’s young grandson, Christopher, is quite the little farm boy, showing no fear of these mammoth looking beasts as he wanders in amongst the herd, which are quite familiar with his presence.
The buffalo are so used to routine they venture up to the dairy in the morning and late afternoon to be relieved of their precious cargo at milking time.
It’s hard slog, and there are plenty of early mornings and late evenings, but it’s all in a day’s work for the Thompsons. The dairy has a steady supply and volume is steadily increasing. And because the milk has higher fat content than traditional milk, making it rich and creamy, it is preferred by local artisan producers.
Both Colin James Fine Foods and Palato Gelato have created a delectable gelato from the milk, while several producers are experimenting with a buffalo milk yoghurt. My favourite, though, would have to be the exquisite cheeses produced at the Cedar Street Cheeserie in Maleny.
Photo: Lachie Millard – www.lachiemillard.com
Owner Trevor Hart is a passionate producer of cheese. A former jazz musician, he has now found his niche and his mozzarella and a specialist burrata are treats not to be missed when visiting the Coast.
Visiting his workshop, I saw the buffalo milk being plied into his renowned fresh silken mozzarella. Mozzarella in the making is a wonderful process to watch. Once the rennet is added it sets into a curd, which is then drained and cut, before the addition of hot water transforms it into a wonderful luscious cheese. Trevor sells at various markets and fine food retailers throughout Australia, as well as supplying to restaurants. For those lucky enough to eat freshly made mozzarella directly from the hands of the maker, it is a truly divine experience. Warm and lush, the whey oozes out with every bite… magical. And yes, I was indeed lucky enough!
Trevor also makes a fabulous haloumi, which has inspired many local chefs, among them Shane Bailey (berardo’s) and Alex Lynn.
The meat is also proving popular, with restaurants such as Pomodoras on Obi offering samplings on the menu, such as their buffalo ragout ravioli. While sourcing meat is a little more difficult, it is available on request through the Kenilworth Butchery.
Buffalo farming is an industry that is evolving. There is so much more to explore and between the dairy products and the interest in meat, I look forward to seeing the Thompsons lead the way, challenging perceptions and educating new palates.
In the meantime, I will continue to look for a way to fit one of those calves into the back seat of my car.
Photo: Lachie Millard – www.lachiemillard.com
This post was written by Petra Frieser and as featured in Regional Foodie Magazine – Issue 1
To find out more about the Sunshine Coast’s regional growers and producers visit:
