Truffles… such an odd and unlikely ingredient, yet it is one that is entirely intriguing. Who would have thought that an ugly little ball of fungus could stir such fervour and emotion and be such a prize possession in the gastronomic world?
I admit… I used to wonder what the big deal was. I thought it was o-kay, but when your only experience of it is a less than wafer-thin shaving of what could almost accidently be inhaled, it is hard to really fathom a genuine sense of how divine the truffle truly is.
However, now I know… and there is no going back – an inhalable ration will never again suffice.
The truffle is a wonder of nature… a wonder firstly that this subterranean food morsel ever ended up on anyone’s plate in the first place (they look a bit like horse pooh), and a wonder in how this aberration of nature comes into existence at all – growing truffles is no easy feat!
A truffle, is essentially, the tuberous growth of an Ascomycete fungus… which means nothing to me… it is not something I have happened upon in my backyard recently, and it is not a word I find easy to say or even remember. Fungus, I am somewhat more familiar with. I have, at times, had some experience in cultivating various strains of fungi at the back of my fridge, but nothing that I would revere with any of the divinity bestowed upon a truffle, nor would I present it on my dinner plate – intentionally.
What makes these knobbly masses so interesting is how they morph their way into existence. They grow symbiotically among the root systems of ‘host’ trees (usually oaks), the fungal fruit joined to them by tiny microfibres that allows nature to freakishly sustain them.
Truffles have an intoxicating aroma. While they are often described as smelling of the earth, I actually thought their fragrance was more that of the ocean. Oddly, they smell uncannily like oysters; fresh, almost salty… maybe my olfactory system is out of whack?
In recent years Australia has entered the truffle arena, with Truffles of Tasmania managing to imitate growing conditions to produce their own, much sought after, black truffle. Considering that it took something like 5 years before they had any sort of indication that their experiment was a success, they should in the least be awarded a medal in patience!
Truffles of Tasmania is located near Deloraine, in the crisp, cool, northern region of Tasmania. Growing conditions are ideal, and the 60 hectare property now supplies many restaurants around Australia with this incredibly seductive ‘fruit’.
Incidentally, the truffles are harvested from under the English oaks in winter, by way of truffle dogs, who sniff out these magical wonders, only to have them pilfered away… one does have to have a degree of sympathy for these poor dogs’ loss…
Last year, I had the opportunity to bask in the olfactory and gustational glory of being part of The Golden Pig Food and Wine School’s truffle dinner where Tim Terry from Truffles of Tasmania captivated us with both the history of the truffle and his own journey in what could really only be described as an obsession.
I can well understand this… now… after spending an evening of almost lathering myself in the fresh, magical fragrance, and then dining insatiably. For the first time ever, I really was able to appreciate what the fuss is all about.
Katrina from The Golden Pig constructed a sensational menu that emphasised both the versatility and intoxicating flavour of this innocuous freak of nature that we all participated in creating.
The great news is, that while the format is slightly different, The Golden Pig is going to host a Tasmanian Truffle Dinner in August and it is my advice to you, that if you are a truffle fan, or you would like to understand what the fuss is all about, well, this is a dinner you simply MUST attend.
As for me… it is the world of no return now… discovering my own obsessive compulsion to experience more of this seductive ingredient, I will no doubt have to find myself a more financially rewarding job (truffles are insanely expensive), or be prepared to make sacrifices with my predilection for purchasing shoes… a dilemma indeed.
The Golden Pig will host their Tasmanian Truffle Dinner with Pepe Saya Butter and Kilikanoon Wines on the 8th August. Bookings essential, and price per person is $165
Menu:
Canapé of Seared Scallop with Creamed leek and fresh Black Truffle
Truffled Polenta with Fontina, sauteéd Mushroom and Spinach, Home Made Sour Cream and fresh Black Truffle
Boned and stuffed Free Range Roast Chicken with Truffle butter, Eschallots & Lardons
Garlic Mash, Brussel Sprouts with Chilli & Truffle butter, crunchy Bread Crumbs
Truffle and Hazelnut Pannacotta, Oranges with Truffled Honey
For bookings or more information, please visit their website:
For fresh Tasmanian truffles mailed to your door:
Katrina has been kind enough to share one of her delicious truffle recipes from the previous cooking class dinner, which I attended.
Wagyu Beef Rump with Truffle Butter
This post was written by Petra Frieser – Pebbles + Pomegranate Seeds
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