Whangaroa is the heart of Northland, the northern part of the North Island of New Zealand. It is the more remote and the lesser known, but equally beautiful harbour, north of the Bay of Islands.
What is also beautiful, is the people – they don’t come much more beautiful, than from these parts. A genuine hospitality and generosity that is hard to find elsewhere.
As if the exquisite natural landscape, and the beautiful people wasn’t enough, I had also heard rumours that there was a bit of an oyster industry in the region.
I think I have had a rave in the past a few times, about how much I love oysters, so I will spare you the pain of repeating myself… but just to reiterate… I do looove oysters.
There is also nothing quite like a fresh oyster. Predictably, they smell and taste like the sea, but it is more the essence of the sea, than the sea itself. Ahhhh.
As fortune would have it, I was put in touch with Janet and Mike Fleming from Flamingo Oysters, whose family, were one of the first oyster growers in the region.
Their oyster farm sits on the edge of the Waitapu Bay, a little bay branching out from the unspoiled Whangaroa Harbour. During high tide, it is a secret that shimmers below the surface, but low tide, the treasure-laden racks emerge to greet the bay, and me, on this occasion, as it would happen. It was a bit of a cloudy old day, on the back of a few days of heavy rain, but it was still easy to appreciate the beauty of this beautiful region, even though it wasn’t the pristine blue that it would normally have been.
The Fleming’s family have been oyster farming for over 40 years. It was one of the first oyster plots in the region. They regard themselves custodians of the 4.2 hectare plot they nurture as well as the 10 acres of farmland surrounding the house, and a neighbouring 18 acres, where they graze 50 head of cattle, on both their own property as well as that of their families.
Janet’s dad, a pioneer in his day, began the oyster farm in 1969, and the farm is now one, of just two, private oyster farms left in the bay. As time has gone on, the main role of running the farm has flowed from Mike, who fell into the role through the good fortune of meeting Janet and love, onto Wayne, their son, who has been working the farm for the last 20 years, occasionally leaving the bay, to pursue other interests and work, but ultimately returning – I don’t think you could leave the bay for long without missing this glorious patch of earth and sea and all of the goodness that comes with it.
The pristine water that ebbs and flows through the bay feed the Pacific oyster spats that cluster onto cement-covered sticks lining the bay on racks. Oysters are fascinating creatures, their gnarled shells and the incredible way they evolve, freakish. Seeing the oysters at various stages of growth, remind me that nature is indeed without explanation.
Some of the oysters are MASSIVE. Wayne wades in between the racks and breaks off a selection for us. I sit on the barge breathing in the sea air, quite overcome by the beauty of it all. I would like an oyster farm too… but not just any farm… I like this one. I like Whangaroa.
As we walk back, Janet points out the natural rock oysters growing wild along the shoreline that have merged with the tide, as well as some twigs with clusters of spats.
Janet and Mike are down-to-earth, charitable people. They spend much of their time, helping the youth of the region and committing time to their community and faith. Their kindness and hospitality knows no bounds and I could have spent hours listening to stories of their hometown and history as well as all the local knowledge of walking trails and such.
Janet is also a writer of beautiful poems many dedicated to her faith that relate loving personal stories, revealing an honest insight of what is close and dear to her heart, many of which are published.
Janet kindly shared the following poem…
A Glowing Pearl
A glowing pearl would never be
So beautiful for one to see,
Had not an oyster known the pain
Caused by the piercing of sand’s grain.
The kauri tall that reaches high
And grows as if to reach the sky;
Could never make such lovely wood
If it had not life’s storms withstood.
A diamond bright upon a hand
That shines beside a wedding band,
As sparkling bright would never gleam
Had it not formed within earth’s seams.
The twinkling star that shines by night
In darkest hours will beam most bright,
To bring a ray of hope to one
Who waits the rising of the sun.
For gems of character that bless,
Like kindness, love and gentleness,
Or patience and humility,
Aren’t gained through ease, but tragedy.
As scented leaves upon a tree
When crushed will smell more fragrantly;
So may the hurts I bear today
In future bless another’s way.
Janet Fleming 1989
This poem takes on special meaning, when Janet explains that she wrote it after being afflicted with Bell’s Palsy, a facial paralysis that affected one side of her face. I would not have noticed, had Janet not pointed it out while taking photographs. It is interesting to note that we never see ourselves how others see us. All I saw was a woman with the great beauty of kindness, the hurt that inspired such a beautiful poem, no longer visible.
Janet invites us to lunch – oyster soup – all my Christmases’ have come at once. Sensational. Another reason why I would like an oyster farm or life on a bay. Imagine coming home with some fresh fish and oysters gathered from the sea in your backyard. I know I have romantised it in my mind, but why let the reality of hard work get in the way of a good daydream.
Wayne now manages the day-to-day running of the farm, alongside his father, Mike, while Lynley, Wayne’s wife, also helps wherever possible. Janet is also still actively involved, finding time in the mornings and evenings to spear fish for dinner. Janet invites me along. I am intrigued, but unfortunately don’t have time – this time – we had a mountain to climb. It is probably a blessing in disguise for Janet. Not exactly known for my fishing skills, I find it challenging to manage a rod (I caught my mum once – after hours at the hospital, we were able to release her). Imagine the damage I could do with a spear, but the invitation stands for another time, and next time I visit Whangaroa, I WILL most certainly take up Janet’s invitation, and make sure I assign more time.
Wandering back to the house, Janet shows us the spectacular gum growing on their property. Coming from Australia, even I have to marvel at the size and magnitude of this gum, which I would agree, is greater than any I have seen of recent times. I’m am sure it grows so well because of the position it has been awarded overlooking the bay – if I was a tree, I would grow well there too… although the moss and lichen unravelling from the branches of the surrounding fruit trees gives me a sense that it has seen some pretty cold damp winters too…
The generosity with which Janet, Mike and Wayne gave their time to show us around the farm, and share their family’s journey, and then also a fabulous unexpected lunch of oyster soup was just so special, and it always makes me feel really blessed that I have the opportunity to meet people such as the Flemings.
While their farm is not one that you can visit – is not open to the public – you can appreciate both their farm, and others from St. Paul’s Peak and know that their oysters are being delivered to purveyors throughout New Zealand. And we all know how sensational New Zealand oysters are.
Janet has kindly shared the recipe to her oyster soup. It’s delicious! Though possibly not quite as good without the fabulous Whangaroa oysters fresh from the bay!
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This story was written by Petra Hughes – Pebbles + Pomegranate Seeds. A special thank you to Janet, Mike and Wayne for their generosity in time.
